Step by step: making a country fence

Step by step: making a country fence

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You have certainly noticed during your trips to the countryside, how the peasants demarcate the land when the vegetable hedges are absent. They plant wooden stakes and attach planks to it, and most often a barbed wire at the top to prevent animals from crossing the fence. Well, that is exactly what we are offering you today, except for the barbed wire which does not have to be between two plots of housing for civilized people. It is a "light" and "cheap" version of these fences which split the French hedgerow. Light, because there is no question here of using mechanical means such as the tractor and the pile driver. Indeed, on a garden soaked by the repetitive rains of winter, the damage would be considerable. Imagine for a moment the tractor wheels on the beautiful lawn, there is no question. Well, because we are going to use what is cheaper, because here, there is no need for barbed wire and thick boards to prevent cows from frolicking in the wild. To do this, call the nearest sawmill and ask for acacia, acacia or even chestnut stakes. To your order you will add files (sometimes also called redos), which are the rounded external parts of unused wooden logs when sawing boards in sawmills. It is preferable that they are edged, that is to say erect straight on the sides, this will help you keep at a regular spacing.
Difficulty : difficult (very physical) Cost : around 50 euros for 20 meters Tools required for 20 meters : - A dozen stakes (plus two or three) - 3m long slabs, approx. 15cm wide - Stainless steel screws or nails - A screwdriver - A weight - A pencil bar - A cord - One meter - Gloves Optional: - A chainsaw - A portable screwdriver - Paraffin

Step 1: Position a line

It is along the cord that you will plant the stakes (or stakes). Tighten it strongly.

Step 2: Measure the spacing between the stakes

Find the location of the first stake and plant it (see Step 3), usually at one end of the field. In order not to be mistaken in the spacing of the stakes, place a backing on the ground against this first stake, and define the location of the third stake. The dosage should slightly protrude on each side. Then, using the measuring tape, position the central stake, the second stake.
As all the backs have the same length, make a cut on it to indicate the position of the central stake. The same dosage will be used to define the location of the next stakes.

Step 3: Plant the stakes

It is better to be two for this stage, one secures the stake so that it sinks straight, and the other… strikes! Always position the stakes so that the flat field touches the line made by the cord, because it is on this face that you will place the back, offering it better support.
Using the crowbar, make a pre-hole in which you will plant the stake. Avoid driving the crossbar down, otherwise there is a good chance that your stake will follow the same path ...
Plant straight and turn the bar in circles to widen the hole. Do not make too large a hole to reduce the post holding, but not too small to avoid exhausting yourself by sinking it. Look at the size of the stake and make the hole accordingly.
Always strike perpendicular to the stake head. If your stakes are in chestnut, it is better to tap with the dish of the mass to avoid splitting them. The dish offers a larger surface which reduces the risk of breakage, but requires more grip to keep the mass stable. Certain masses lend themselves better to this atypical use than others.
Your stakes are planted, do not worry about their height, they will be resized.
Some have suffered, this one is well split.
At the finish, the stake cut to the right height, one or two screws will be welcome to correct this little problem.

Step 4: Attach the backs

The first lower dosage is fixed first. If the terrain of your field is not flat, it is not the line that will give the horizontality of the first line of lower backs, you will have to compose, and make a sort of average profile of your court. Screws are preferable to nails, because wood swells with humidity, then tightens in dry periods, which sometimes causes the nail to come out.
The backs are placed by overlapping, every other time. The first two at the bottom, the next two at the top, and so on.
If you start "high", plan that the next 2 will be below. It will therefore be necessary to check the possible passage of a mower. It is worth thinking about it before fixing the first dose.
As your files are edged, that is to say that their field is straight, it is easy to position them parallel by measuring from edge to edge. Please note, however, since the backing sheets do not have the same width, the measurement does not refer to the following two…
The stakes are raw and split. A stake may naturally rotate on itself, hampering the placement of the back. In this case, a chainsaw to plan the annoying part.
The backs protrude on each side of the stake. You never know, one day it may be necessary to change a stake, it can take its place on the right or on the left. The dose can also break under the weight of a child for example, in which case, there is a little margin on each side to make a "weld" in the middle. But nothing prevents you from cutting close to the stake, it is according to the tastes and desires of each.

Step 5: Resize the stakes

Now you have to align the stakes from the top. Again, if the ground is not flat, do not use the line. It is necessary to measure from the junction between two upper backs and the top of the stake.

Step 6: Protect your stakes

To avoid rotting and infiltration of rainwater at the head of the stake, cut the top at an angle.
The head of an acacia stake ready to face the weather.
Otherwise, in a thick jar, melt paraffin in a double boiler, otherwise candles can do the trick.
Pour and spread the paraffin on the head of the stake using a glove. This provides very good protection against rotting.
Here is your closing finished at low cost. Very easy to maintain, it does not rust, cannot be treated, does not obstruct the view, allows the mower to pass, facilitates weeding (unlike a fence), does not take up space ( unlike a low wall), and above all inexpensive (unlike a hedge). On the other hand, we like or we don't like!